Sail Panache
Strutting across the PacificBlog
Slow Roll to La Paz – Part Two: Ensanida de Los Muertos
Rising from the v-berth brought a tired yet strengthened feeling in my bones - this was the aftereffects of hiking the day before. After a tall cup of Starbucks poured through my gravity fed coffee maker I was ready to pull up anchor and head to Ensanida de Los Muertos, the next stop towards La Paz.
The sail out of Los Frailes was up wind and only required one tack. As night approached the wind dissipated, and so the engine was turned on and throttled down hard to make consistent headway. Five miles outside the anchorage the engine started to heat up excessively. I shut everything off abruptly and broke out the diesel mechanics books to try and figure out what was wrong. Panache was bobbing like a quark, slowly moving backwards back to Los Frailes. The only thing that made any sense was an obstruction in the cooling system, or I was overloading the engine. After verifying the cooling system was functioning properly, it became obvious I was overloading the engine. Looking back at the logbook, we were pumping the engine at nearly 3,000RPMs (the maximum RPMs suggested for my engine), and running the alternator to power the batteries. Ok, the engine was overburdened. I turned the engine on and ran it at 900RPMs for 5 minutes to circulate cool water throughout to lower the temp. I steadily ramped up the RPMs to find the optimal spot for running the engine without overheating it. The engine was running cool and strong and we were back on track to getting to bed before midnight.
Motoring was slow, and Nate ended up getting his sleeping bag out on deck and sleeping like a cocoon in the cockpit adjacent from me. I could see the mast lights of the anchorage in the distance swaying side to side, but they didn't seem to be getting any closer. The wind started to pick up again, and then a little pitter patter of rain started to fall. About two miles outside the anchorage, the rain came in full force. I was so absorbed by the radar readout and depth that I forgot completely about Nate's cocoon situation next to me. He was still sound asleep despite the gallons of water that were rushing over his sleeping bag. I almost didn't want to wake him up but I needed his help to anchor. Anchoring was seamless. When you really want something (especially sleep) efficiency goes way up. I have never anchored so fast in my life!
Panache does best in tropical climates, so the rain was somewhat of a surprise to everyone. Mer was dead asleep through the motoring, rain, and wind. I welcomed the sound of rain hitting the deck. Not only was it a free wash down for Panache, but it was almost like a little slice of Seattle, my hometown. I use the word sleep lightly because I got up no less than five times to make sure we weren't dragging anchor. So far, Panache has been lucky enough to not experience any anchoring problems. the boat is light, I always try and let out a 7-1 scope (all chain), and the bottom has always been a nice mixture of mud and sand. In a couple of questionable spots I have even gone as far as to dive down to the anchor to make sure it was set properly. Better to be conservative when anchoring.
To my surprise, the morning was clear and calm. Not to my surprise, half the boats that were in the anchorage last night were now gone. Not something to complain about. Most of the boats anchored participated in the Baja Ha Ha. Mers old boat Convivia was a quick swim away so we snorkeled over to say hi. The normally crystal clear water was clouded due to the rain run-off and high winds, but this didn't stop us. Convivia is a beautifully aged 1970 Cal 43. After catching up with them and enjoying an ice-cold smoothy, we concluded a bonfire beach party was needed for two reasons; 1. Beach bonfires are awesome, and 2. so many Baja Ha Ha boats were in the anchorage a reunion would be fun to catch up with everyone.
Our beach assault was going to be from the sea today. Keene, Mer, Nate and I loaded up our dry bags with everything needed for a beach day (with the possibility of a beach night), and hopped in the water. With the wind blowing right off the beach, our supposed short swim ashore turned into a grueling workout that made me beach myself gasping for air when I hit the white sand. When I recovered and regained my breath I was greated with two surprises. Sea turtle nests that were carefully marked, and a full sized golf corse in the middle of nowhere. The golf corse made Nate angry, but the turtle nests made everyone happy.
Nate and I started walking down the beach to scope out the best spot for our bonfire. Keene and Mer got lost in the rainbow of sea shells that lined the breakwater. We found a cozy spot nestled between a sand dune and a pile of stones that would radiate heat once warmed by the fire. Now the only problem was finding enough firewood to satisfy an all night bonfire for 15 plus people. The beach wasn't barren of wood, but it didn't exactly have the volume of sticks I am used to from beaches back in the pacific northwest. Nate and I set off down the beach in search of the big sticks of Mexico.
Instead of picking every stick up, we decided to create satellite piles to pick up when we come back from the other end of the beach. Efficiency. By the time we got down to the Resort at the end of the beach we had hounded enough firewood to satisfy a small and short lived fire. Efficiency had failed us so we tried ingenuity. Nate and I rustled up palm branches and tied them together to create a cart we could stack wood on. This worked great until the wight of all our wood dwarfed our own wight as work horses. As we dragged ourselves further towards our intended bonfire spot we passed the beach resort. Our neanderthal firewood scavenging techniques gave us enough attention by the resort patrons to buy us a boost from a four wheeler.
The couple was happy to help, mainly because they were retreating back to there home overlooking the bay and our fire pit was on the way. Our wood pile was so large that even the four wheeler was having issues pulling it. Nate and I were all smiles admiring how everything just seems to work out until we realized the four wheeler had passed our fire pit. Our situation got worse 30 seconds later when the four wheeler took a sharp turn and all our wood scattered over the beach. We saw the four wheeler stop, circle the wreckage of firewood, then untie our palm brach sleigh and cruise off into the distance. Shit.
When we reached the wood wreckage, my heart sunk realizing we would have to pull this bundle twice as far, but then I noticed something in the distance. It was a blue purse. The lady on the four wheeler dropped her purse. Nate and I looked at each other and knew they would be back. We re-stacked our pile and rummaged through the purse while we waited. I was getting a little sunburned so I helped myself to some of the ladies sunscreen, and then I started to read through her book "Facebook for Dummies." Minutes later we heard the muffled rumble of the four wheeler and eagerly waited for the explanation on why they abandoned our wood sleigh. With the purse as collateral they were more than happy to be our transport.
During our second sweep of the beach, another couple at the resort offered there Mule to help out with the firewood effort. When I say Mule, I'm referring to the five person four wheeler with a truck bed, not the donkey mammal thing. Now powered by a Mule, Nate, Mer, Keene and I collected almost every stick of firewood on the whole beech in less than 30 minutes! It was a mad dash, and even though the Mule didn't exceed speeds of 15mph it felt good to not be restricted by the direction of the wind. Our pile of wood now covered a footprint the size of a VW van and stacked up to my waste. Operation all night bonfire was in full swing.
Nate converted the palm frond sleigh into a beach front hut that sat right next to the fire pit. We even collected coconuts from a neighboring tree for snacks. Fire + beach hut + coconuts = coco vibe. This was a term developed by Mer and Nates friend Randy, and it encompasses everything chill and beach oriented. I am still trying to grasp the true essence of the coco vibe, but I do know that our bonfire was in accordance with the coco vibe code. All the boats from the anchorage showed up, and we ended up singing songs and telling stories around the fire until the wee hours of the night. When the last boat left the bonfire for the night, we made the executive decision to sleep in the beach hut as opposed to swimming back to the boat in the dark.
We took the surrounding rocks from the fire, and buried them underneath the sand to warm our sleeping area. This worked until about 3am when Nate and I opted to ditch our beach hut in favor for the resorts beach hut that was fully furnished with beds and blankets. It was a good nights sleep.
Our last day at Ensanida de Los Muertos was spent sleeping on the beach and snorkeling. We missed a southerly wind that would have made the last push to La Paz a cinch, so tomorrow was going to be an intense day of upwind sailing.
We woke up nice and early to get a head start. Right out of the bay the wind was 10 knots. We headed 25 degrees off the wind on a port tack with he intention of heading through the Ceralvo channel between Baja Mexico and Ceralvo Island. the channel is a renowned wind surfing spot that has high winds, currents and swell. Not the fastest or safest place to sail upwind, but certainly something that would test Panache and crew. When we rounded the point to head into the channel, you could see white caps being blown downwind as far as the eye could see. Ceralvo Island (and channel) is roughly 16 miles long, but with all the tacks we were making back and fourth up wind, it certainly more than doubled our track.
The reason Ceralvo channel makes for such an interesting sail, downwind or up, is because its essentially a huge funnel. A plus to sailing through a funnel is that it creates upwellings that result in nutrient rich water. The plus of nutrient rich water is a whole bunch of fishy activity. On our second tack in the channel a huge dorado hooked itself on a silver spoon we were trolling behind the boat. Moving at 5 knots, just fast enough for the silver spoon to jump out of the water ever so often, makes for a meal most fish can't refuse. Mer did not have the privilege on the way down the pacific coast to pull in a fat fish, so when she saw what must have been a 45" dorado leap out of the water, she could barely control her volume. Unfortunately, before we could even put the leather gloves on to pull in the monster fish, it shook off our line. Before we could cry about our loss, another fish tore at our line! Figuring it was the same foolish dorado, I pulled the line in with a huge grinch smile. But it wasn't a dorado. It was some strange tuna looking silver fish with a black spot right on its gill plate. Big fish, looks like a tuna, sounds good to me.
I started to fillet the fish but got a little worried because the meat was dark red, almost purple, and it was a little tough. I fried up a steak of the mystery fish and was severally disappointed with the table quality of the meat. Even the smell was too much to handle. Bad fish, plus the bashing of waves from sailing up wind was starting to get to me. We still had a long way to go before we were out of Ceralvo channel, and I was starting to feel a little queazy. I stood on deck to try and clear my head, but the smell of the fish was covering my hands. I had no escape.
Darkness covered our surroundings and I was going to attempt to mask the crap smell/taste of the fish in a pasta sauce. All I managed to do was ruin three perfectly good servings of pasta. When I handed Nate his plate of pasta, he wolfed it down before I could apologies for ruining dinner. Despite acknowledging the fact that it tasted terrible, he still cleaned the plate claiming that he was too hungry. Admirable but disgusting. I didn't even wake Mer up to torture her with the food. I ended up tossing the crap fish pasta and the remaining fish steaks into the churning Ceralvo channel. They might not feed us, but at least they will feed other fish.
When we finally escaped Ceralvo channel Panache had performed more tactics in the last 16 mile stretch than we did on the whole 750 miles down the coast to Cabo San Lucus. I puked once, and we killed one fat mystery fish. All in all, it was a good day. We anchored Panache at Balandra beach, just a couple of miles north from La Paz to catch a blink of sleep. In the morning after 6 or so hours we motored the remaining miles into La Paz.
La Paz was my last destination that I had planned out, and after this I had no reservations. We all agreed that it was a great feeling to make a destination once again. We joked about how this must feel similar to how people feel when they hit land in Australia after cruising through the south pacific. Just a small glimmer of that pleasure. Making landfall in Australia... What a thought.
Posted in BlogTagged Beach, Beach Bum, Coco Vibe, Mexico, ocean, Panache, Sailing, snorkelingLeave a comment
Slow Roll to La Paz – Part One: Los Frailes
After over stretching my budgets in Cabo, it was finally time to pick up the hook, fill the tanks, and harbor hop to La Paz. The sail to La Paz was only 142 miles, but to avoid sailing at night and loosing sleep I planned to make several stops along the way.
The fuel dock was buzzing with many Baja Ha Ha cruisers eager to get out of Cabo. Since we used almost no fuel to get down to Cabo, running the engine only to recharge batteries, we only needed to fill the water tanks. At 6 pesos a gallon we could top off all 60 gallons of water tankage for roughly $20 USD. A foreign boat in Cabo never produces much curiosity, mainly because all the other boats are foreign, but everyone is always friendly, and it was easy to strike up a conversation with neighboring boats that were filling up. The young average age of my boat also lends itself to many questions; "So whats your story? How did you get down here? What are your future plans?" We ended up chatting with a sports fishing boat based out of Colorado about our individual plans when leaving Cabo. The old woman that was firing questions my way, looked like a ghost and almost had a heart attack when she heard we didn't run our refrigerator. She must have felt sorry for us because she handed us a bag of three beautiful Dorado steaks, and made me promise her we would eat within the next 8 hours. I graciously agreed and we parted ways.
It felt good to set sail again and stretch out the sails. Right as Panache started to hit a stable 5 knots, Cabo creeping farther and farther away from us in the background, a humpback whale blew its spout 25 meters off the starboard bow. The whale was also heading away from the busy inlet to Cabo. For 10 minutes we sailed parallel with the whale, waiting anxiously for it to re-surface for a breath of air. I was too far away to get a decent picture, but it was quite a site to see a creature that big so close in the wild. It was a great start to our trip to La Paz.
Mer was new to Panache, and was overflowing with questions about how I handled the boat. I'm sure there is 1,000 ways to do any one thing, so it was nice to see her making the effort to do it the way I preferred. I try not to be an overbearing control freak of a captain, but the roll almost requests it. I told Mer, as I have the rest of my crew, that they should call me out if I am being too intense. A bad captain will micromanage, which is a product of distrust, so I want to delegate. I was also surprised I could answer all the questions Mer had. I guess I knew a little more about Panache than a gave myself credit for. Sailing over 800 will do that to you.
Our short sail was proving more difficult as we rounded the rather long cape of the Baja peninsula. The wind steadily shifted from a strong easterly gusts to a pitiful southern zephyr. We were wing and wing with the head sail and jib pushed all the way out, but only making 3.5 knots - a miracle for the amount of wind that was behind us. This would normally frustrate me, but the almost full moon decided to poke its head from behind the horizon to keep Panache and crew company. The moon was so bright that there was only a handful of prominent stars in the sky to align our heading with.
As the wind dwindled to nonexistence, I reluctantly turned on the motor and inched closer to our anchorage at Los Frailes, a nice big anchorage that is overlooked by a small East Coast sized peak roughly 750 feet tall. The anchorage was filled with cruisers making there way to La Paz just like us. In the bright moonlight I could even recognize some Baja Ha Ha boats. It was 3:30 in the morning and all I wanted to do was sleep. I made a point to plot out day sails all the way to La Paz, and staying up until 3:30 was not what I had in mind. First time we dropped the anchor we were too close to the rocky shore, the second time we dropped the hook we ended up too close to another boat. Third time we attempted to drop the anchor, the freaking windlass was seized up! Finally we made a successful anchoring and went straight to bed confident we wouldn't move an inch.
My sleep was heavy but precariously balanced, and after the weather started to ramp up and knock the boat around, I woke without question. The northerly wind turned to a southerly overnight and Panache, like all the other boats in the harbor, were rocking like a carriage rolling down a flight of stairs. I let out more chain to give Panache an 8-1 scope, and started to plan the day. On the sail over, I was reading a guide book that discussed the bay just north of Los Frailes called Cabo Pulmo, and apparently it housed the only hard reef in the Sea of Cortez that was over 20,000 years old! This was something we needed to see.
We broke out the dinghy and made a quick stop off by Bill Bartlett's boat ShantiAna to pick up his son Keene before we headed to shore. ShantiAna is a beautifully restored Columbia 38 that is so clean, you could eat off the anchor locker floor. We couldn't convince Bill to come to shore due to the rough swell and a shopping list of boat projects he had to crank out, but all four youngsters piled into the dinghy, and we headed to shore.
A quick note about my dingy. Its small. Really small. Its supposed to fit only two people and we had four. Add swell and a small 3HP outboard, and you have one exciting and wet ride. Every wave would push us forward and splash a bit of water into the boat. As we inched closer to shore I realized that the breaking waves could pose a serious threat to our level of diminishing dryness we were still holding onto. I have seen pictures of entire dinghies, big dinghies, flipped ass over tea cup into the surf. I started to run through the play by play on how the shore landing would unfold. This turned out to be a complete waste of time because when we actually got to the breakwater it gushed us onto the beach at light speed, dumping all aboard but myself into the water. We didn't flip and know body was injured so I guess it was a successful landing.
To double our pleasure we decided to hike up the overlooking 'Mountain' and walk along the water to Cabo Pulmo for some snorkeling. Easy enough. There was no trail, so we had to do our best to navigate the cactus, horse shit, and prickly bushes. In every nook and cranny little cactuses were starting their beginnings. This was cute until I stepped on one. Once we reached the foot of the "Mountain" the brush started to clear and we were able to bolder our way to the top. The Southern wind tore up the hill and ripped over the peak making a wonderful playground for hundreds of turkey vaulters. This was cheap and interesting entertainment for us land dwellers.
Mer, Keene and I started our way to the tip top and Nate trailed behind us. I looked back to make sure he was still following and he made a hand signal laterally across the "Mountain." I responded with thumbs up to signal I understood, and then pointed to myself and the tip top, and he reciprocated with thumbs up. The top of the "Mountain" was not far off, and as I pulled myself closer I could feel my pace increase. Panting like a dog I stood on what seemed like the clouds. For the longest time my vantage was at sea level, and now I could see almost 50 miles in every direction. Down in the anchorage my boat was only the size of a beetle bobbing in what looked to be a puddle of water spilling into a larger lake. Mer, Keen and I sat, drank water, had a banana and pointed out interesting features of the landscape.
Twenty Minutes must of passed before we noticed that Nate was no where to be seen. I told Mer and Keene that he was moving across the mountain and was probably caught up taking pictures of all the beautiful scenery, but after scouring the open faced mountain with three sets of eyes, my explanation for his absence made less and less sense.
An hour went by and we had physically walked everywhere where he said he was. My mind was starting to entertain worst case scenarios. What if he fell and got knocked unconscious?! Sounds ridiculous, but Nate wouldn't just disappear like that. We all agreed to split up and take two separate routs. I would head back down the mountain to search the beach, and Mer and Keene would bushwhack the rest of the way to Cabo Pulmo. Before we left We crafted a note and placed it on the top of the mountain just incase Nate had somehow slipped by, or was playing a sick game of hide and seek. I insisted that the note contain a post script that read 'Zack is annoyed.'
Halfway down the "Mountain" I ran into some Chaco tracks, the very sandals Nate was wearing. I don't pay attention to shoes, I only know they were chaco tracks because I was wearing the same pair. Nate and I were shoe brothers. I felt like a Cherokee tracker stalking prey, the only difference was I Nate is a human, not a deer, I was still going to kill him. Unless he was already dead. The tracks led right to the dinghy, and sure enough his hat and sunglasses were there. He must have swam back to the boat. I was relived and confused as to why he wouldn't just tell us where he was going. Like, what the heck! A group is responsible for every other member, and If someone goes missing, it's the groups job to find that person. Our group was officially in search in rescue mode, and Nate was siting pretty on the boat completely oblivious to our condition. Woof.
Even though Nate was safe, I had to meet up with Mer and Keene so the rescue effort wasn't doubled. So I started walking on the dusty road to Cabo Pulmo hoping someone would drive by and give me a ride. The ride never came, but a cluster of buzzards did circle me as I made a slow and steady path to Cabo Pulmo. When I arrived, Mer and Keene were standing there in bathing suits ready to jump in the water. The day was hot and Mer had salt on her face from a massive buildup of sweat. "So did you two find Nate?" I asked. Mer replied with a disappointed "No…" I told both of them that Nate was on safe onboard Panache, and there faces couldn't decided weather to be happy that he was ok, or furious that he had led us on a wild goose chase that lasted all day. They were dumbfounded. I was still dumbfounded.
We opted for a quick snorkel before the sun went down, and even secured a ride back to Los Frailes with Alejandro. All it costed was an eight pack of beer. Yes, in Mexico they have 8 packs of beer. Mind-blowing.
The dingy ride back to the boat was thankfully uneventful, and we sat on ShantiAna drinking beer late into the night venting about the wild goose chase we had just undergone.
When I finally got back to the boat Nate was waiting. He was surprised I was worried in the first place. I had spent the better part of the day planning out how I would verbally crush Nate, but at my level of sobriety I could only muster the question, "What were you thinking?"
Posted in BlogTagged Beach, Cruising, Fish, Hiking, La Paz, Los Frailes, Mexico, Sailboat, Sailing, snorkeling3 Comments